Labarai - Shin Glabridin Cire Licorice Yana Aiki Da gaske?

I. Gabatarwa

Masana'antar kula da fata ta yaba da bajintar farin ciki na "Glabridin"(wanda aka ciro daga Glycyrrhiza glabra) yayin da ya zarce shugaban farar fata arbutin ta hanyar ban mamaki sau 1164, yana samun taken "fararen zinare"! Amma da gaske yana da ban mamaki kamar yadda yake sauti?

Yayin da yanayi ke canjawa kuma tituna suka ƙara ƙawata da “ƙafafu marasa ƙarfi da hannaye,” batun tattaunawa tsakanin masu sha’awar kyan gani, baya ga kariya daga rana, babu makawa ya koma fatar fata.

A fannin kula da fata, ɗimbin abubuwan da suka haɗa da fararen fata suna da yawa, waɗanda suka haɗa da bitamin C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, glutathione, ferulic acid, phenethylresorcinol (377), da ƙari. Duk da haka, sinadarin "glabridin" ya tayar da sha'awar magoya baya da yawa, wanda ya haifar da bincike mai zurfi don gano karuwar shahararsa. Bari mu shiga cikin cikakkun bayanai!

Ta wannan labarin, muna da nufin magance mahimman batutuwa masu zuwa:
(1) Menene asalin Glabridin? Ta yaya yake da alaƙa da "Glycyrrhiza glabra tsantsa"?
(2) Me yasa ake girmama "Glabridin" a matsayin "fararen zinare"?
(3) Menene amfanin "Glabridin"?
(4) Ta yaya Glabridin ke cimma tasirin sa?
(5) Shin da gaske licorice yana da ƙarfi kamar yadda ake da'awa?
(6) Wadanne kayan kula da fata sun ƙunshi Glabridin?

No.1 Bayyana Asalin "Glabridin"

Glabridin, memba na dangin flavonoid licorice, an samo shi daga shuka "Glycyrrhiza glabra." A cikin ƙasata, akwai nau'ikan lasican lasisi takwas, tare da iri uku da aka haɗa a cikin "Pharmacopoeia, ƙwayoyin lallasa, da kuma licorice Glaba. Ana samun Glycyrrhizin na musamman a cikin Glycyrrhiza glabra, yana aiki a matsayin babban ɓangaren isoflavone na shuka.

Tsarin tsari na glycyrrhizin
Da farko kamfanin MARUZEN na Japan ne ya gano shi kuma aka samo shi daga Glycyrrhiza glabra, glycyrrhizin ana amfani da shi sosai azaman ƙari a cikin fararen samfuran kula da fata a cikin Japan, Koriya, da samfuran kula da fata na duniya daban-daban. Koyaya, yana da mahimmanci a lura cewa sinadarin da aka jera a cikin samfuran kula da fata da muke amfani da shi bazai zama “glycyrrhizin ba a sarari” amma a maimakon haka “tsarin Glycyrrhiza.” Yayin da "Glycyrrhizin" abu ne na musamman, "Glycyrrhiza tsantsa" na iya haɗawa da ƙarin abubuwan da ba a keɓe su da tsabta ba, mai yuwuwar yin aiki azaman dabarun talla don jaddada halayen "na halitta" samfurin.

A'a.2 Me yasa ake kiran licorice "Gold Whitener"?

Glycyrrhizin abu ne mai wuya kuma mai wahala don cirewa. Glycyrrhiza glabra ba a sauƙin samuwa a cikin yawa. Haɗe tare da rikitattun tsarin aikin hakar, ana iya samun ƙasa da gram 100 daga ton 1 na sabo mai tushe da ganye na licorice. Wannan ƙarancin yana haifar da ƙimarsa, yana mai da shi ɗayan mafi tsada da kayan masarufi a cikin samfuran kula da fata, kwatankwacin zinari. Farashin 90% tsaftataccen danyen wannan sinadari ya haura sama da yuan 200,000/kg.
Na yi mamaki, don haka na ziyarci gidan yanar gizon Aladdin don tabbatar da cikakkun bayanai. Ana ba da licorice mai tsafta (tsafta ≥99%) akan farashin talla na yuan 780/20mg, daidai da yuan 39,000/g.
Nan take, na sami sabon girmamawa ga wannan sinadari mara nauyi. Tasirin farin sa mara misaltuwa ya ba shi taken "fararen zinare" ko "Golden Whitener".

No.3 Menene Aikin Glabridin?

Glabridin yana alfahari da ɗimbin kaddarorin halittu. Yana aiki azaman ingantacciyar hanya, mai aminci, kuma abin da ke da alaƙa da muhalli don farar fata da cire freckle. Har ila yau, yana da anti-mai kumburi, anti-mai kumburi, antioxidant, anti-tsufa da kuma anti-ultraviolet effects. Ingantattun ingancin sa a cikin fararen fata, haskakawa, da cire freckle yana samun goyan bayan bayanan gwaji, wanda ke nuna cewa tasirin farin Glabridin ya zarce na bitamin C sama da sau 230, hydroquinone sau 16, da kuma sanannen wakili na whitening arbutin ta hanyar 1164 mai ban mamaki. sau.

No.4 Menene tsarin farar fata na glabridin?

Lokacin da fata ta fallasa zuwa hasken ultraviolet, yana haifar da samar da free radicals, melanocytes suna motsawa don samar da tyrosinase. Karkashin tasirin wannan enzyme, tyrosine a cikin fata yana haifar da melanin, wanda ke haifar da duhun fata yayin da ake jigilar melanin daga basal Layer zuwa stratum corneum.
Mahimmin ƙa'idar kowane sinadari mai launin fata shine shiga tsakani a cikin tsarin samar da melanin ko sufuri. Tsarin farar fata na Glabridin da farko ya ƙunshi abubuwa uku masu zuwa:
(1) Hana ayyukan tyrosinase
Glabridin yana nuna tasirin hanawa mai ƙarfi akan ayyukan tyrosinase, yana ba da tabbataccen sakamako mai mahimmanci. Kwamfuta na kwaikwayo sun nuna cewa glabridin na iya daure da ƙarfi ga cibiyar tyrosinase ta hanyar haɗin hydrogen, yadda ya kamata ya toshe shigar da albarkatun ƙasa don samar da melanin (tyrosine), don haka yana hana samar da melanin. Wannan tsarin, wanda aka sani da hana gasa, yayi daidai da karimcin soyayya.

(2) Yana hana samar da nau'in oxygen mai amsawa (antioxidant)
Bayyanar hasken ultraviolet yana haifar da samar da nau'in oxygen mai amsawa (free radicals), wanda zai iya lalata membrane phospholipid na fata, yana haifar da erythema da pigmentation. Don haka, an san nau'in iskar oxygen da ke ba da gudummawa ga launin fata, yana nuna mahimmancin kariya ta rana a cikin kula da fata. Nazarin gwaje-gwaje sun nuna cewa glabridin yana nuna irin wannan damar kawar da radical kyauta zuwa superoxide dismutase (SOD), yana aiki azaman antioxidant. Wannan yana aiki don rage abubuwan da ke haifar da ƙara yawan ayyukan tyrosinase.

(3) Hana kumburi
Bayan lalacewar fata daga haskoki na ultraviolet, bayyanar erythema da pigmentation suna tare da kumburi, yana kara tsananta samar da melanin da kuma ci gaba da sake zagayowar lalacewa. Abubuwan da ke hana kumburin Glabridin suna haifar da yanayi mai kyau don hana samuwar melanin zuwa wani ɗan lokaci, yayin da kuma inganta gyaran fata mai lalacewa.

Na 5 Shin Glabridin Shin Gaskiya Ne Mai Iko?

An yaba da Glabridin a matsayin ingantaccen kuma abin da ke da alaƙa da muhalli don farar fata da cire freckle, yana alfahari da ingantaccen tsarin farar fata da ingantaccen inganci. Bayanai na gwaji sun nuna cewa tasirin sa ya zarce na arbutin mai “whitening giant” sama da sau dubu (kamar yadda aka ruwaito a bayanan gwaji).
Masu bincike sun gudanar da samfurin gwaji na dabba ta amfani da zebrafish don tantance tasirin hana glabridin akan melanin, yana nuna mahimmancin kwatanta da kojic acid da bearberry.
Baya ga gwaje-gwajen dabba, sakamakon asibiti ya kuma nuna babban tasirin farin fata na glabridin, tare da lura da sakamako mai kyau a cikin makonni 4-8.
Yayin da ingancin wannan sinadari mai farar fata ya bayyana, amfani da shi ba ya yaɗuwa kamar sauran abubuwan da ake yin fata. A ganina, dalilin farko ya ta'allaka ne a cikin "matsayin zinari" a cikin masana'antar - yana da tsada! Duk da haka, bayan amfani da samfuran kula da fata da aka fi sani da su, ana samun haɓakar yanayin daidaikun mutane waɗanda ke neman samfuran da ke ɗauke da wannan sinadari na “zinariya”.

No.6 Wadanne Kayayyakin Kula da Fata Sun ƙunshi Glabridin?

Disclaimer: Wannan jeri ne, ba shawara ba!
Glabridin wani sinadari ne mai ƙarfi na kula da fata wanda aka sani don abubuwan da ke haskaka fata. Ana iya samun shi a cikin samfuran kula da fata daban-daban, gami da serums, essences, lotions, da masks. Wasu takamaiman samfuran da zasu iya ƙunsar Glabridin, duk da haka, yana da mahimmanci a lura cewa kasancewar Glabridin a cikin samfuran kula da fata na iya bambanta, kuma yana da kyau a yi nazari a hankali jerin abubuwan da ke cikin takamaiman samfuran don gano haɗa shi.
(1) Alleble Licorice Sarauniya Jikin Lotion
Jerin abubuwan da ke cikin sinadarai sun fito da alama "Glycyrrhiza glabra" a matsayin sinadari na biyu (ruwa mai biyo baya), tare da glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, da sauran abubuwan da suka dace.
(2) Kayan shafa Yara Hasken 'Ya'yan itace Licorice Gyara Jigon Ruwa
Abubuwan da ke da mahimmanci sun haɗa da cirewar Glycyrrhiza glabra, tsantsar algae hydrolyzed, arbutin, tushen tushen polygonum cuspidatum, Scutellaria baicalensis tushen tsantsa, da ƙari.
(3) Kokoskin Dusar ƙanƙara Clock Essence Jikin Jiki
Yana nuna 5% nicotinamide, 377, da glabridin a matsayin manyan abubuwan da ke tattare da shi.
(4) Mask ɗin Fuskar Licorice (Sannu daban-daban)
Wannan nau'in samfuran ya bambanta, tare da wasu suna ɗauke da ƙarancin kuɗi kuma ana tallata su azaman "glabragan" na ganye.
(5) Guyu Licorice Series

Na 7 Azabtar Raya

(1) Shin Glabridin a cikin samfuran kula da fata da gaske an fitar da shi daga licorice?
Tambayar ko Glabridin a cikin samfuran kula da fata da gaske an fitar da shi daga licorice yana da inganci. Tsarin sinadaran licorice tsantsa, musamman glabridin, ya bambanta, kuma tsarin hakar na iya zama mai tsada. Wannan ya haifar da tambayar ko zai iya zama mafi amfani don la'akari da haɗin sinadarai a matsayin madadin hanyar samun glabridin. Yayin da wasu mahadi, irin su artemisinin, za a iya samu ta hanyar jimlar kira, yana yiwuwa a haɗe glabridin kuma. Duk da haka, ya kamata a yi la'akari da abubuwan da ke haifar da haɓakar sinadarai idan aka kwatanta da hakar. Bugu da ƙari, ana iya samun damuwa game da gangan yin amfani da lakabin "Glycyrrhiza glabra tsantsa" a cikin jerin abubuwan sinadarai na kula da fata don ƙirƙirar roƙon sinadarai na halitta. Yana da mahimmanci a zurfafa cikin tushen da hanyoyin samar da kayan aikin fata don tabbatar da gaskiya da gaskiya.

(2) Zan iya shafa licorice mai tsafta kai tsaye a fuskata don launin fari mai dusar ƙanƙara?
Amsar ita ce a'a! Yayin da tasirin glabridin ya zama abin yabawa, kaddarorinsa suna iyakance aikace-aikacen sa kai tsaye. Glycyrrhizin yana kusan rashin narkewa a cikin ruwa, kuma ikonsa na shiga shingen fata yana da rauni. Haɗa shi cikin samfuran kula da fata yana buƙatar samar da tsauraran matakai da shirye-shirye. Idan ba tare da ingantaccen tsari ba, zai zama ƙalubale don cimma tasirin da ake so. Koyaya, binciken kimiyya ya haifar da haɓaka shirye-shirye na zahiri a cikin nau'ikan liposomes, haɓaka haɓakawa da amfani da glabridin ta fata.

ambaton:
[1] Pigmentation: dyschromia[M]. Thierry Passeron da Jean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. Spectrochimica Acta Sashe na A: Kwayoyin Kwayoyin Halitta da Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111-117