Labarai - Shin Glabridin na cire licorice yana aiki da gaske?

I. Gabatarwa

Masana'antar kula da fata ta yaba da ƙwarewar yin fari na "Glabridin" (an ciro daga Glycyrrhiza glabra) yayin da ya zarce shugaban farin arbutin sau 1164, wanda hakan ya sa aka ba shi lakabin "zinariya mai farin jini"! Amma shin da gaske yana da ban mamaki kamar yadda yake sauti? Ta yaya yake samun irin wannan sakamako mai ban mamaki?

Yayin da yanayi ke canzawa kuma tituna suka zama abin ƙawata da ƙarin "ƙafafu marasa hannuwa da kuma hannaye marasa hannuwa," batun tattaunawa tsakanin masu sha'awar kwalliya, banda kariya daga rana, babu makawa ya koma ga yin fari da fata.

A fannin kula da fata, akwai sinadarai da yawa da ke ƙara farin fata, waɗanda suka haɗa da bitamin C, niacinamide, arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, glutathione, ferulic acid, phenethylresorcinol (377), da sauransu. Duk da haka, sinadarin "glabridin" ya jawo hankalin masoya da yawa, wanda hakan ya haifar da bincike mai zurfi don gano yadda yake ƙara shahara. Bari mu zurfafa cikin cikakkun bayanai!

Ta wannan kasidar, muna da nufin magance waɗannan muhimman batutuwa:
(1) Menene asalin Glabridin? Ta yaya yake da alaƙa da "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract"?
(2) Me yasa ake girmama "Glabridin" a matsayin "zinariya mai farar fata"?
(3) Menene fa'idodin "Glabridin"?
(4) Ta yaya Glabridin ke cimma tasirin farinsa?
(5) Shin licorice yana da ƙarfi kamar yadda aka yi iƙirari?
(6) Waɗanne kayan kula da fata ne ke ɗauke da Glabridin?

Lamba ta 1: Bayyana Asalin "Glabridin"

Glabridin, memba ne na dangin flavonoid na licorice, an samo shi ne daga shukar "Glycyrrhiza glabra." A ƙasata, akwai manyan nau'ikan licorice guda takwas, tare da nau'ikan guda uku da aka haɗa a cikin "Pharmacopoeia," wato Ural licorice, licorice bulge, da licorice glabra. Ana samun Glycyrrhizin ne kawai a cikin Glycyrrhiza glabra, yana aiki a matsayin babban ɓangaren isoflavone na shukar.

Tsarin tsarin glycyrrhizin
Kamfanin MARUZEN na ƙasar Japan ne ya fara gano shi kuma aka cire shi daga Glycyrrhiza glabra, ana amfani da glycyrrhizin sosai a matsayin ƙari a cikin kayayyakin kula da fata masu launin fari a faɗin Japan, Koriya, da kuma nau'ikan kula da fata daban-daban na ƙasashen duniya. Duk da haka, yana da mahimmanci a lura cewa sinadarin da aka lissafa a cikin kayayyakin kula da fata da muke amfani da shi ba lallai bane ya zama "glycyrrhizin" a bayyane, sai dai "Glycyrrhizin." Duk da cewa "Glycyrrhizin" abu ne na musamman, "Glycyrrhiza extract" na iya ƙunsar ƙarin abubuwan da ba a ware su gaba ɗaya ba kuma an tsarkake su, wanda hakan na iya zama dabarar tallatawa don jaddada halayen "halitta" na samfurin.

A'a.2 Me yasa ake kiran licorice da "Zinare Mai Farin Zinare"?

Glycyrrhizin sinadari ne mai wahalar cirewa. Glycyrrhiza glabra ba shi da sauƙin samu a yalwace. Idan aka haɗa shi da sarkakiyar tsarin cirewa, za a iya samun ƙasa da gram 100 daga ton 1 na sabbin ganyen licorice. Wannan ƙarancin yana haifar da ƙimarsa, wanda hakan ya sa ya zama ɗaya daga cikin kayan da aka fi tsada a cikin kayan kula da fata, wanda aka kwatanta da zinare. Farashin kashi 90% na wannan sinadari ya tashi zuwa sama da yuan 200,000/kg.
Na yi mamaki, don haka na ziyarci gidan yanar gizon Aladdin don tabbatar da cikakkun bayanai. Ana sayar da licorice mai tsabta (tsaftacewa ≥99%) akan farashin talla na yuan 780/20mg, daidai da yuan 39,000/g.
Nan take, na sami sabon girmamawa ga wannan sinadari mai ban mamaki. Tasirin farinsa mara misaltuwa ya sa aka ba shi lakabin "zinare mai farin gashi" ko "zinare mai farin gashi".

A'a.3 Menene Aikin Glabridin?

Glabridin yana da tarin kaddarorin halitta. Yana aiki a matsayin sinadari mai inganci, aminci, kuma mai aminci ga muhalli don cire farin fata da freckle. Bugu da ƙari, yana da tasirin maganin kashe ƙwayoyin cuta, maganin kumburi, maganin hana tsufa, da kuma hana ultraviolet. Ingancinsa na musamman wajen yin fari, haske, da kuma cire freckle yana da goyon bayan bayanan gwaji, wanda ya nuna cewa tasirin farin Glabridin ya zarce na bitamin C sau 230, hydroquinone sau 16, da kuma sanannen maganin farin arbutin sau 1164.

A'a.4 Menene tsarin farar fata na glabridin?

Idan fatar ta fuskanci hasken ultraviolet, wanda hakan ke haifar da samar da free radicals, ana ƙarfafa melanocytes don samar da tyrosinase. A ƙarƙashin tasirin wannan enzyme, tyrosine a cikin fata yana samar da melanin, wanda ke haifar da duhun fata yayin da ake jigilar melanin daga layin basal zuwa stratum corneum.
Babban ƙa'idar duk wani sinadari mai ƙara farin jini shine shiga tsakani a cikin tsarin samar da melanin ko jigilarsa. Tsarin ƙara farin jini na Glabridin ya ƙunshi fannoni uku masu zuwa:
(1) Hana aikin tyrosinase
Glabridin yana nuna tasirin hana aiki mai ƙarfi akan aikin tyrosinase, yana ba da sakamako bayyanannu da mahimmanci. Kwaikwayon kwamfuta sun nuna cewa glabridin na iya ɗaurewa sosai zuwa tsakiyar aiki na tyrosinase ta hanyar haɗin hydrogen, yana toshe shigar da kayan da ake buƙata don samar da melanin (tyrosine), wanda hakan ke hana samar da melanin. Wannan hanyar, wacce aka sani da hana gasa, tana kama da wata alama ta soyayya mai ƙarfi.

(2) Dakatar da samar da nau'ikan iskar oxygen masu amsawa (antioxidant)
Fuskantar hasken ultraviolet yana haifar da samar da nau'ikan iskar oxygen masu amsawa (free radicals), wanda zai iya lalata membrane na fata, wanda ke haifar da erythema da pigmentation. Saboda haka, an san nau'ikan iskar oxygen masu amsawa suna ba da gudummawa ga launin fata, yana nuna mahimmancin kariyar rana a kula da fata. Nazarin gwaji ya nuna cewa glabridin yana nuna irin wannan ikon cire tsattsauran ra'ayi kyauta kamar superoxide dismutase (SOD), yana aiki azaman antioxidant. Wannan yana taimakawa wajen rage abubuwan da ke haifar da ƙaruwar ayyukan tyrosinase.

(3) Hana kumburi
Bayan lalacewar fata daga hasken ultraviolet, bayyanar erythema da launin fata yana tare da kumburi, wanda ke ƙara ta'azzara samar da melanin da kuma ci gaba da zagayowar cutarwa. Abubuwan da Glabridin ke amfani da su wajen hana samuwar melanin sun haifar da yanayi mai kyau, yayin da kuma ke inganta gyaran fatar da ta lalace.

A'a. 5 Shin Glabridin Da Gaske Yana Da Ƙarfin Haka?

An yaba wa Glabridin a matsayin sinadari mai tasiri da kuma mai kyau ga muhalli don cire farin fata da freckle, yana da kyakkyawan tsarin yin farin fata da kuma ingantaccen aiki. Bayanan gwaji sun nuna cewa tasirin farin fatarsa ya zarce na "babban mai yin farin fata" arbutin sau dubu (kamar yadda aka ruwaito a cikin bayanan gwaji).
Masu bincike sun gudanar da wani samfurin gwajin dabbobi ta amfani da zebrafish don tantance tasirin hana glabridin akan melanin, wanda ya nuna babban kwatancen da kojic acid da bearberry.
Baya ga gwaje-gwajen dabbobi, sakamakon asibiti ya kuma nuna tasirin farin glabridin mai ban mamaki, tare da lura da sakamako mai kyau cikin makonni 4-8.
Duk da cewa ingancin wannan sinadarin farin ƙarfe a bayyane yake, amfaninsa bai yaɗu kamar sauran sinadaran farin ƙarfe ba. A ganina, babban dalilin yana cikin "matsayin zinare" a masana'antar - yana da tsada! Duk da haka, bayan amfani da kayayyakin kula da fata na yau da kullun, akwai karuwar mutanen da ke neman samfuran da ke ɗauke da wannan sinadarin "zinariya".

Lamba ta 6: Waɗanne Kayayyakin Kula da Fata ne Ke ɗauke da Glabridin?

Bayanin Hana: Jerin abubuwan da ke ƙasa ne, ba shawarwari ba!
Glabridin sinadari ne mai ƙarfi na kula da fata wanda aka sani da kaddarorinsa masu haskaka fata. Ana iya samunsa a cikin samfuran kula da fata daban-daban, gami da serums, essences, lotions, da abin rufe fuska. Duk da haka, wasu takamaiman samfuran da zasu iya ƙunsar Glabridin, yana da mahimmanci a lura cewa kasancewar Glabridin a cikin samfuran kula da fata na iya bambanta, kuma yana da kyau a yi bitar jerin sinadaran takamaiman samfuran don gano abubuwan da ke cikinsa.
(1) Man Shafa Jiki na Alable Licorice
Jerin sinadaran ya fi bayyana a fili cewa "Glycyrrhiza glabra" a matsayin sinadari na biyu (wanda ke biyo bayan ruwa), tare da glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, squalane, ceramide, da sauran abubuwan da ke sanya danshi.
(2) Kayan Shafawa na Yara, Ruwan 'ya'yan itace mai sauƙi, Licorice mai sauƙin gyarawa
Sinadaran da ke cikinsa sun hada da sinadarin Glycyrrhiza glabra, sinadarin algae da aka yi hydrolyzed, arbutin, sinadarin Polygonum cuspidatum, sinadarin Scutellaria baicalensis, da sauransu.
(3) Maganin Jikin Kokoskin na Agogon Dusar ƙanƙara
Yana ɗauke da kashi 5% na nicotinamide, 377, da glabridin a matsayin manyan abubuwan da ke cikinsa.
(4) Abin Rufe Fuska na Licorice (Kamfanoni Daban-daban)
Wannan nau'in kayayyakin ya bambanta, wasu kuma suna ɗauke da ƙananan adadin kuma ana tallata su a matsayin "glabragan" na ganye.
(5) Jerin Lasisin Guyu

Azaba ta 7 ga Rai

(1) Shin da gaske ne Glabridin da ake amfani da shi a cikin kayan kula da fata ake cirewa daga licorice?
Tambayar ko Glabridin a cikin kayayyakin kula da fata an cire shi daga licorice gaskiya ne. Tsarin sinadarai na cire licorice, musamman glabridin, ya bambanta, kuma tsarin cirewa na iya zama mai tsada. Wannan yana tayar da tambayar ko zai fi dacewa a yi la'akari da haɗakar sinadarai a matsayin wata hanya ta daban don samun glabridin. Duk da cewa ana iya samun wasu sinadarai, kamar artemisinin, ta hanyar haɗakarwa gaba ɗaya, a ka'ida yana yiwuwa a haɗa glabridin. Duk da haka, ya kamata a yi la'akari da tasirin haɗakar sinadarai idan aka kwatanta da cirewa. Bugu da ƙari, akwai yiwuwar a sami damuwa game da amfani da lakabin "Glycyrrhiza glabra extract" da gangan a cikin jerin sinadaran kula da fata don ƙirƙirar sha'awar tallan sinadarai na halitta. Yana da mahimmanci a zurfafa cikin asali da hanyoyin samar da sinadaran kula da fata don tabbatar da gaskiya da sahihanci.

(2) Zan iya shafa licorice mai tsafta kai tsaye a fuskata don fatar da ta yi fari da dusar ƙanƙara?
Amsar a'a ce mai ƙarfi! Duk da cewa tasirin farin glabridin abin yabawa ne, amma halayensa suna iyakance amfani da shi kai tsaye. Glycyrrhizin kusan ba ya narkewa a cikin ruwa, kuma ikonsa na shiga shingen fata yana da rauni. Haɗa shi cikin samfuran kula da fata yana buƙatar tsari mai tsauri da tsari. Ba tare da ingantaccen tsari ba, zai zama ƙalubale a cimma tasirin da ake so. Duk da haka, binciken kimiyya ya haifar da haɓaka shirye-shiryen shafawa a cikin nau'in liposomes, yana haɓaka sha da amfani da glabridin ta fata.

nassoshi:
[1] Pigmentation: dyschromia[M]. Thierry Passeron da Jean-Paul Ortonne, 2010.
[2] J. Chen et al. / Spectrochimica Acta Sashe na A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectroscopy 168 (2016) 111–117